The History of Tartan

Research credit: Peter Eslea MacDonald OBE TD, The Scottish Tartans Authority

Tartan is synonymous with Scotland, where it is closely associated with the kilt and Highland dress. As a textile, it is not unique to the country; early specimens have been recorded in China, Egypt and Europe, but only in Scotland did tartan reach the status of a cultural icon.

The Earliest Tartans

In Scotland, surviving pre-18th-century specimens are extremely rare. The so-called Falkirk tartan is often cited as the oldest example of a Scottish tartan, but its Romano-British associations mean the claim must be treated with caution. By contrast, the Glen Affric tartan, named after the glen in which it was found, has been carbon-14 dated to the 16th century and is recognised as Scotland's oldest surviving specimen of a true tartan, one woven in a typical pattern of stripes of different proportions and colours.

Until the early 19th century, people wore tartan based on what they liked, could afford, or what was available. The naming of civilian tartans began in the late 18th century with the weaving firm Wilsons of Bannockburn, who named some of their tartans after towns, regions and notable people. In 1815, the Highland Society of London established the concept of clan tartans,  a concept that quickly developed to form the basis of the clan and family tartans so familiar today.

Tartan in Scotland Before 1700

Other than a small number of specimens, there are few surviving records of tartan in Scotland before 1600. Early records are fragmentary, often translations of Latin text, with descriptions such as striatis (striped) and veriedatae (variegated) sometimes inferred to mean chequered. Interpretation is further complicated by the fact that "tartan" was also used to refer to a type of material commonly called linsey-woolsey.

A more reliable 17th-century source is John Speed's 1662 map of Scotland, which includes the figure of a Highland man and woman wearing garments that are clearly tartan. A few years later, Michael Wright's c.1680 painting of Lord Mungo Murray became the first known portrait showing tartan and Highland dress.

Writing of the inhabitants of the Isle of Mull in 1688, William Sacheverell noted: "The usual outward habit of both sexes is the pladd; the women's much finer, the colours more lively, and the squares larger than the men's."

The Jacobites and the Dress Act

Jacobite agitation gained momentum in the early 18th century following the Union of the Parliaments in 1707. This period coincided with socio-economic improvements that saw increased references to, and depictions of, tartan and Highland dress.

During the '45 Rising, Prince Charles Edward Stuart adopted tartan as a unifying symbol and encouraged his supporters to wear it. After the failure of the Rising, the government introduced the Act of Proscription, commonly called the Dress Act.

A persistent myth claims that tartan was banned outright after Culloden. In reality, the Act applied only to the clothing of men and boys in the Highlands, and excluded landowners, those in the army and, by omission, women. Several prominent individuals were painted wearing tartan during the early years of the restriction. The ban lasted 35 years but was enforced inconsistently and was generally obsolete by about 1770.

The Highland Revival and the Victorian Era

The Highland Revival (approximately 1780–1840) saw the rapid development of Highland dress and tartan. Shortly after the repeal of the Dress Act in 1782, Wilsons of Bannockburn began producing tartans named after towns and places such as Aberdeen, Crieff, Fort William and Galawater.

In 1815, the Highland Society of London promoted the idea of preserving clan tartans by writing to Highland chiefs and urging them to submit a specimen of their traditional tartan. Despite considerable confusion,  no two descriptions were exactly alike, the concept was readily adopted, with fifty-five specimens submitted between 1815 and 1822.

The visit of George IV to Edinburgh in 1822, orchestrated by Sir Walter Scott, encouraged people to turn out "plaided and plumed" to greet the King. Later, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert's love of the Highlands, and the Royal Family's enthusiastic adoption of tartan, helped propel it into broader fashion and identity across the nation and beyond.

Tartan Today

The 20th century saw the growth of Highland outfitters and the kilt hire trade. In 1963, the Scottish Tartans Society was founded to study and preserve tartan history. In 1995 it was reconstituted as The Scottish Tartans Authority, which remains a key authority on all things tartan and a principal partner with the Scottish Register of Tartans, founded in 2008.

From around 500 patterns pre-1900, there are now well over 10,000 registered tartans, with more than 500 new designs registered annually. From its humble rural beginnings in the Highlands, Scottish tartan — the Fabric of the Nation — has become the gift that Scotland gave the world.

Frequently Asked Questions

Was tartan banned after Culloden?

Not entirely. The Dress Act restricted certain items of male Highland clothing in specific contexts, but tartan was never banned outright. Landowners, soldiers and women were exempt.

When did clan tartans begin?

The concept of clan tartans was formalised in 1815 by the Highland Society of London and quickly developed into the clan and family tartans recognised today.

How many tartans exist today?

Modern registers contain well over 10,000 tartans, and the number continues to grow each year with more than 500 new designs registered annually.

Can I create my own tartan?

Yes. Great Scot specialises in bespoke tartan design for families, businesses and charities. Every custom tartan we have created has been approved by the Scottish Register of Tartans on the first application. Get in touch to start your design.

Source: The Scottish Tartans Authority